Three examples of joining outer and inner tubes Top: A straight cut, inner tube going all through the outer. Middle: Slanted cut, inner tube just stuck into outer. Bottom: With rear weight. Outer tube shortened to fit. You tie the hackle/wing section on the part marked in green, right in front of the outer tube or weight. In the middle case the thread will secure the two tubes. In the two other cases the collar melted in the rear and front will keep things in place. http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=9084 Tied by Kasper Mühlbach http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/shrimp-anatomy/pic.php?id=9067 Tied by our own Kasper Mühlbach http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/shrimp-anatomy/pic.php?id=9066 A shrimp tied by Danish Ken Bonde Larsen http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/shrimp-anatomy/pic.php?id=9065 http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/light-curing-resins/pic.php?id=9064 The fly that caught the nice fish actually looks quite a lot like a shrimp http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/shrimp-anatomy/pic.php?id=9063 No matter what shrimp can be darn effective. This 10 lbs. beauty was taken by Danish Rune Westphal on an shrimp imitation called A Perfect Ghost-Shrimp http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/shrimp-anatomy/pic.php?id=9062 It takes a dumb trout to mistake this for a real shrimp! http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/shrimp-anatomy/pic.php?id=9061 Very dense and very furry http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/shrimp-anatomy/pic.php?id=9060 Perhaps inspired by The Pink Pig, but tied in a less pink color http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/shrimp-anatomy/pic.php?id=9059 Tied by Swedish Jesper Malmberg and used for perch. Uses a soft body material to provide the right \"chewy\" senstation http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/shrimp-anatomy/pic.php?id=9058 Danish Kern Lund is famous for his meticulous shrimp flies. This is The Leo Shell Shrimp http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/shrimp-anatomy/pic.php?id=9057 Diamond Hard and Diamond Fine http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/light-curing-resins/pic.php?id=9056 The early grannom hatch make the brownies look up towards the surface http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/grannom/pic.php?id=8995 http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/grannom/pic.php?id=8994 The Grannom hatches right as the trees start getting leaves in April http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/grannom/pic.php?id=8993 The fly is tied quite meaty and with an obvious, dark rib http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/grannom/pic.php?id=8992 A sedge or caddis with a bright, green body http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/grannom/pic.php?id=8991 As you can see from Ken\'s recent batch of tube flies, the possible variations are numerous, and only your fantasy limits the creativity that can be put into these flies. http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8978 The upper wing is supported by a small underwing and a hackle http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8977 Notice how the whole wing section consisting of two wings, two hackles and some flash seems to come from right under the cone http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8976 This fly consists of a bare tube, one racoon zonker strip and a straw of flash for a wing, and a front hackle. The cone finishes the front, and a bright junction tube the rear. http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8975 http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8974 On top the inner tube is stuck all the way through the outer tube and melted in the rear. you tie on the small tube right in front of the outer tube and use a soft connection tube to hold the hook. Below that the inner tube is only stuck partly into the outer tube, which is cut at an angle. You tie right on the connection, and using a connection tube is optional since the hook can go inside the outer tube. The cone goes on AFTER the fly is finished. http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8973 The finished fly http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8972 Melt a collar on the inner tube to secure the cone. Be careful not to scorch the hackle! http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8971 Cut off the inner tube 2-3 millimeters in front of the cone with a sharp knife or razor blade http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8970 Push the cone over the inner tube and onto the still wet glue or varnish. Push hard to compress the materials http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8969 Add varnish or glue over the final wrap and the base of the hackle and wing http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8968 Whip finish and cut the thread http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8967 The fly has no thread head as such, but just the final wraps that hold the materials http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8966 Trim the surplus, pull the hackle fibers back and wrap a couple of times over and in front of the hackle to sweep it back http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8965 Tie down the hackle. Again it\'s important to keep the fly compact and not let the materials work too far forward http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8964 Wrap the hackle forwards in 2-3 close turns on top of the wing base http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8963 Tie in the hackle, shiny side forwards http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8962 Remove the fluffy part of the hackle leaving barbs about the length of the thick tube http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8961 I use normal rooster hackle for the front hackle, but a fairly large size http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8960 Notice again how it\'s lifted by the underwing and the hackle http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8959 Cu off a piece of zonker strip. About the length of the thick tube or a bit more will be fine http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8958 Select the zonker strips. I have opted for some striped ones http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8957 Clip off the stems of the hackle feathers and cut away as much of the butts as possible http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8956 Tie in the second hackle feather on the opposite side to create an even row of hackle tips under the fly http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8955 Tie in the first hackle feather. Rather than wrapping it it\'s simply tied in parallel to the tube to create the first part of a false hackle http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8954 Pick a couple of long fibered feathers from the skin http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8953 Select some soft hackles for the first set. This is an extremely spey-like Chickabou from Whiting http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8952 Tie in a small tuft of Polar fox as the underwing http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8951 Start the thread over the connection between the tubes http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8950 Find a cone that fits as tightly as possible over the inner tube. Put it aside for later http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8949 Cut the large tube at an angle as shown. Run it over the needle and do the same with a piece of inner tube. Make sure the two fit snugly together. Press the inner tube about ½-1 centimeters or less than half an inch into the outer tube http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8948 The Bag Fly is a very simple tube fly. You vary the volume and length of the wing by choosing a different fur - not by cutting the strip longer. Notice again how the base of hackles and wings are hidden under the cone. http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8947 Melt the inner tube to form a collar, which holds the cone in place. You can do this on the tube needle or remove the fly first. Keeping the fly on the needle ensures that the hole stays open. Make sure to keep materials out of the way. http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8946 Trim the inner tube to about 2-3 millimeters. You can use a sharp knife for this. Remove the surplus tube http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8945 The cone is in pace and firmly stuck over the butts and wraps http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8944 Press the cone hard over the final wraps while the glue or varnish is still wet. You want to press the materials together and completely hide the base of the wing and the hackle http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8943 Add varnish or super glue on the final thread wraps http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8942 Press the cone over the thin tube and leave it in front of the head http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8941 Wrap the hackle 2-3 turns forward, keeping it on top of the wing base and again very compact. Pull back the hackle and take a couple of turns to control it, whip finish and cut thread http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8940 Trim the stem short and tie in shiny side forward on top of the wing base http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8939 Prepare a second hackle identical to the first. http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8938 Tie in the zonker strip right in front of the hackle, keeping everything very compact. Notice how the strip \"rides\" on the underwing and hackle http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8937 Prepare a black rabbit zonker strip about the length of the thick tube http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8936 Pull the hackle back and take a couple of turns of thread to press it back http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8935 Wrap the hackle forward in 2-3 close turns on top of the wing base. Tie down and trim. http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8934 Trim the stem of the hackle short and tie it in shiny side forward right in front of the wing http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8933 Remove the webby part of a feather, leaving some fairly long barbs about the same length as the thick tube http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8932 We will use fairly large, green hackle feathers for this fly http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8931 This small wing is supposed to lift the rest of the wing, the zonker strip we will tie in. Leaning it up the large tube will flare it a bit, creating volume http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8930 Trim the wing butts and tie in the wing right where the thread was started http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8929 Prepare a small hair wing from Arctic fox and measure it for length. Slightly longer than the tube is fine. usually hand stack the wing to even the tips http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8928 Start the thread over the connection between the thin and the thick tube http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8927 The LCR\'s offer themselves very well to experiments with epoxy-types of flies like these baitfsh imitations tied from my dog Divus\' hair. It\'s not the first time he has sacrificed fur for my flies... http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/light-curing-resins/pic.php?id=8926 Even large flies with a fair amount of resin cure in a few seconds. And you can add multiple layers and cure small drops as you work yur way around the fly http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/light-curing-resins/pic.php?id=8925 http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/gymf/pic.php?id=8924 http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/gymf/pic.php?id=8923 Som people say that flies like The GYMF and its bright green brethren look like sea weed to the mullet. This might be true. http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/gymf/pic.php?id=8922 The Bidoz tube just visible inside the junction tube that holds the hook in place http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/gymf/pic.php?id=8921 The Green Yarn Mullet Fly and The Green Yarn Mullet Bead Head http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/gymf/pic.php?id=8920 The Green Yarn Mullet Tube Fly http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/gymf/pic.php?id=8919 http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/gymf/pic.php?id=8918 Nils trying to get into the mullet that were all over the place out there http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/gymf/pic.php?id=8917 It might look like any water surface, but the boil out there was the first sign I saw of hundreds of mullets that didn\'t spook, but actually took the flies! http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/gymf/pic.php?id=8916 http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/gymf/pic.php?id=8915 http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/gymf/pic.php?id=8914 http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/gymf/pic.php?id=8913 The remains of my wife\'s Tindra yarn will produce me a ton of flies http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/gymf/pic.php?id=8912 My first mullet took a bright green tube fly http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/gymf/pic.php?id=8911 The yarn that got me going - with some Bidoz tubes and chartreuse tying thread, ready to tie some GYMTF\'s Green Yarn Mullet Tube Flies http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/gymf/pic.php?id=8910 This fish died and wound up on the frying pan http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/gymf/pic.php?id=8909 My first mullet ever landed, here shot while it was still able to wiggle its tail http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/gymf/pic.php?id=8908 The Pinky Pain certainly is pink http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/pinky-pain/pic.php?id=8907 A nice, classical hair wing streamer http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/pinky-pain/pic.php?id=8906 Finish the head, whip finish and varnish a couple of times http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/pinky-pain/pic.php?id=8905 Fold back the flash to lie flat over the wing http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/pinky-pain/pic.php?id=8904 Tie in a couple of straws of smooth pink flash over the wing http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/pinky-pain/pic.php?id=8903 Cover the wing butts with a few tight turns http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/pinky-pain/pic.php?id=8902 Catch the butts and tie in the wing on top of the hook shank http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/pinky-pain/pic.php?id=8901 Measure the wing for length - 1½ -2 times shank length is fine - and cut the butts http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/pinky-pain/pic.php?id=8900 Moisten the wing to get the hair under control while tying it in http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/pinky-pain/pic.php?id=8899 Cut a bunch for the wing, hand stack it to even the tips and the underfur http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/pinky-pain/pic.php?id=8898 Bring out some pink Arctic fox http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/pinky-pain/pic.php?id=8897 Trim the hackle so that it reaches the hook point http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/pinky-pain/pic.php?id=8896 Fold back the flash and tie it down http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/pinky-pain/pic.php?id=8895 Add 3-4 straws of Krystal Flash folded over to begin the false hackle http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/pinky-pain/pic.php?id=8894 One the body is cured or dry we\'re ready to continue http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/pinky-pain/pic.php?id=8893 Cure the resin or let the varnish dry http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/pinky-pain/pic.php?id=8892 Spread out the varnish or the resin to an even layer http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/pinky-pain/pic.php?id=8891 Cover the tinsel body with varnish or resin http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/pinky-pain/pic.php?id=8890 Use a LCR (Light Curing resin) or operationally normal varnish http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/pinky-pain/pic.php?id=8889 Trim the butts and stray straws to form a smooth body http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/pinky-pain/pic.php?id=8888 When the flash is wrapped, tie it down behind the hook eye http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/pinky-pain/pic.php?id=8887 Pull the flash back and tie it down to form one bunch http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/pinky-pain/pic.php?id=8886 Form a flat bunch and wrap it to the hook bend and back to form an even body http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/pinky-pain/pic.php?id=8885 Fold back the flash to make one bunch http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/pinky-pain/pic.php?id=8884 Tie in the flash in the middle of the straws behind the hook eye leaving space for the head http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/pinky-pain/pic.php?id=8883 Take out a bunch of crinkly flash. You need about four straws http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/pinky-pain/pic.php?id=8882 Start the thread behinf the hook eye http://globalflyfisher.com/patterns/pinky-pain/pic.php?id=8881 You can combine outer and inner tubes to get the mixed color effect. The combined tubes will easily make a nice body for the fly, so leaving the tube uncovered is an obvious option. http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8880 A general outline of a typical shrimp. http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/shrimp-anatomy/pic.php?id=8879 The detail with the tail made from translucent plastic like the legs is a nice way of imitating the fanned shrimp tail http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/shrimp-anatomy/pic.php?id=8878 Based on Kern Lund\'s Perfect Leo Shrimp, this gets close, but still has a broom for a mouth http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/shrimp-anatomy/pic.php?id=8877 This honey shrimp does look convincing, but is pretty far from the natural with it poking eyes and fanned out legs http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/shrimp-anatomy/pic.php?id=8876 A very popular pattern - close in shape and size, but still with a lot of things going on in the leg/antennae department http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/shrimp-anatomy/pic.php?id=8875 It\'s pretty far fetched to say that this store bought shrimp-imitation looks anything like the shrimp that swims in the waters it\'s supposed to be used in. It can probably catch fish, but it takes the Ray Charles or Stevie Wonder of fish to mistake it for a shrimp! http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/shrimp-anatomy/pic.php?id=8874 ...or perhaps the fishing photographer? http://globalflyfisher.com/gallery/henry-hegeman/pic.php?id=8868 http://globalflyfisher.com/gallery/henry-hegeman/pic.php?id=8867 http://globalflyfisher.com/gallery/henry-hegeman/pic.php?id=8866 Icelandic for Yes, yes this is another small tube from Icelandic Nils Jorgensen, but still using the same basic components http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8865 Rubber legs and stripes are not forbidden. Go ahead and experiment like Nils Jorgensen has done here http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8864 In spite of being very small, these Icelandic tubes tied by Nils Jorgensen still follow the general pattern http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8863 This Black Sheep might look skinny and small, but once it\'s in the water it expands to its full volume http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8862 The peaty water found in many Danish streams calls for bright orange and yellow flies, and for night fishing... black! http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8861 Based on a general template you can vary colors and composition endlessly http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8860 Another steelhead fly in the Intruder tradition... and then some! From Canadian Tube Flies. http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8859 An Intruder style fly for steelhead. A very different style from the Scandinavian. From Canadian Tube Flies. http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8858 Black Sheep inspired, but tied in the short, Danish salmon and seatrout style with volume and mobile materials http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8857 This pattern is a very typical Danish seatrout and salmon fly. Lots of volume, dominated by black and with some contrasty accents http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8856 Danish river Karup is known for night fishing for seatrout where flies with lots of volume work well. The flat disk will make the materials work in the current http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8855 Feel free to experiment with odd colors. Here we have gold/yellow, light olive and orange in a nice combination http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8854 There\'s a Danish fly called Det Gule Lyn (The Yellow Lightning), over which this fly was composed with some artistic freedom http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8853 Same colors but different materials - note the tube and the cone http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8852 Bright and colorful, but with harmony http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8851 A large, bushy and very visible fly http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8850 Yellow, black, blue and red is a truly classic and universal color combination http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8849 Cutting the outer tube depends on the use. Top right is the most common way, middle right is for a lower wing and less bulk and in the bottom right the tube is adapted to a weight - a rear tube. The top left tube is a Pro Tube Micro tube, designed to make very compact flies with a central weight http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8848 You want to use cones that match the inner tube perfectly. There should be no play between the tube and the cone. That will leave the cone 100% straight after it\'s been mounted as the final step http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8847 Some tubes are coiled. Don\'t let that worry you. They will be straight once they are mounted in the vice and the fly is tied http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8846 The left tube is a one-piece tube from Danish Pro Tube. In the center it\'s a nicely fitting outer and inner tube from German Wurm and on the right I have put together a total mismatch between two different brands, leaving way too much space between the tubes http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8845 These tubes from German Wurm are perfectly matched and will need no glue http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8844 Here you can see an example of the components that can go into any tube fly. Mix and match and adhere to a few rules and keep proportions and you will get a nice fly http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8843 Ken keeps on tying in spite of having boxes like this http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8842 You can use tubes as the Pro Tube system (top) or combine a thick outer and a thin inner tube to make your own two-diameter tube http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tube-fly-lecture/pic.php?id=8841 http://globalflyfisher.com/gallery/nick-laferriere/pic.php?id=8840 Patterns like the Surf Candy and the Epoxy Miracle is an obvious fly to convert to a light curing resin http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/light-curing-resins/pic.php?id=8839 One disadvantage about epoxy is that it gets brittle in the cold. Time will tell if the LCR\'s have the same issue http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/light-curing-resins/pic.php?id=8838 http://globalflyfisher.com/gallery/nick-laferriere/pic.php?id=8837 http://globalflyfisher.com/gallery/nick-laferriere/pic.php?id=8836 http://globalflyfisher.com/gallery/nick-laferriere/pic.php?id=8835 http://globalflyfisher.com/gallery/nick-laferriere/pic.php?id=8834 http://globalflyfisher.com/gallery/nick-laferriere/pic.php?id=8833 http://globalflyfisher.com/gallery/nick-laferriere/pic.php?id=8832 http://globalflyfisher.com/gallery/nick-laferriere/pic.php?id=8831 http://globalflyfisher.com/gallery/nick-laferriere/pic.php?id=8830 http://globalflyfisher.com/gallery/nick-laferriere/pic.php?id=8829 http://globalflyfisher.com/gallery/nick-laferriere/pic.php?id=8828 http://globalflyfisher.com/gallery/nick-laferriere/pic.php?id=8827 http://globalflyfisher.com/gallery/nick-laferriere/pic.php?id=8826 http://globalflyfisher.com/gallery/nick-laferriere/pic.php?id=8825 The segmentation is sometimes broken up with some obvious vertical banding - \"tiger stripes\" almost, as seen on this animal. http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/shrimp-anatomy/pic.php?id=8824 Sometimes the color can be quite astonishing, but still with that translucent quality http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/shrimp-anatomy/pic.php?id=8823 This image shows the humpy shape of the shrimp body, the translucency of the legs and the obvious egg sack of many specimens http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/shrimp-anatomy/pic.php?id=8822 This top view shows the general body shape as well as the shape of the fan tail, which is common to most shrimp http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/shrimp-anatomy/pic.php?id=8821 This shrimp was shot in a white bucket and shows the common coloration, translucency and body shape/structure of the most common shrimps in the shallow Baltic waters http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/shrimp-anatomy/pic.php?id=8820 Tropical cleaner shrimp are often very bright. They are meant to be seen. http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/shrimp-anatomy/pic.php?id=8819 Many tropical shrimp from coral reefs are very colorful. Shrimps from sand and mud flats are typically much duller http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/shrimp-anatomy/pic.php?id=8818