Discovering the Marbury Lake Flies
If today's tyer wants to tie the Mary Orvis Marbury Lake flies, they would be wise to think 'old school', and transport themselves back to a time when the hooks had blind eyes, the materials were natural, and the flies were colorful
By Mike Boyer
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Flies and photography by the author Charles Orvis opened his tackle shop in Manchester, Vermont in 1856, and the business did thrive. The nearby Green Mountains were becoming a resort area, and Orvis developed a clientele for flies and tackle from customers both near and far. By 1876, Charles was having difficulties obtaining materials, and supplying all the flies his customers were ordering. Of his three sons and one daughter, only his daughter Mary showed interest in tying flies. An expert 'fly dresser' from New York was brought in to sharpen Mary's skills. That same year, Mary Orvis Marbury took over the fly tying business for her father, employing from five to seven women, working in the upstairs of the Union Street factory that Charles had occupied since 1870.
As the Orvis tying business developed and expanded, there were eventually 434 fly patterns offered. The Orvis flies were divided into roughly four categories: Trout, Bass, Lake, and Salmon. Some patterns did double duty for more than one species of fish, depending on the size and style the fly was tied. The Trout flies were the smallest but most numerous of the patterns, being gut snelled. The Bass flies were large and gaudy by comparison, tied with gut snells or twisted gut eyes. The Salmon flies were based mostly upon their British cousins, with a few American and Canadian Salmon patterns added. There were 46 Lake fly patterns. In today's terms, the Lake flies would be considered 'attractor' or 'all around' flies. They were tied generally smaller than the Bass and Salmon flies, but for the most part larger than the Trout patterns. The Lake flies could be fished for several species, from Trout to Bass. Many of the Lake patterns such as the Fiery Brown are not complicated, consisting of a tail and wing of Goose or Turkey (natural and dyed), a body of chenille, fur, or Peacock herl, maybe a tinsel rib, and a collar hackle. Some of the Lake patterns are more complex, being closer to the Salmon flies with silk bodies, and wings with multiple elements, and including more exotic feathers. Besides strip wings of Goose and Turkey, whole feather wings of waterfowl (Wood duck, Teal, and Mallard), Golden Pheasant tippets, Pheasant body feathers (hen and cock), and several other types of body feathers from other birds were paired up as 'spoon' wings on the Lake flies. Compared to modern flies, the wings were more upright, the bodies sometimes strongly tapered, and the hackles full and sweeping back. Many of the heads were built of red wool, black Ostrich herl, or Peacock herl. If today's tyer wants to tie the Marbury Lake flies, they would be wise to think 'old school', and transport themselves back to a time when the hooks had blind eyes, the materials were natural, and the flies were colorful and uniquely adapted to the American fly fishing experience by Mary Orvis Marbury and her crew of women tyers. Study the color plates and interesting information in Mary's book 'Favorite Flies and their Histories' and you will gain an appreciation for the character and significance of these American classic flies.
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| CUNNINGHAM - STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS | ||
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(2) Tie in a piece of small oval tinsel, and wrap five turns past the point (wrapping over the tinsel). Return the thread to the point of the hook, then wind five turns of tinsel forward. Tie off the tinsel. Prepare some small strips for the tail (both right and left) and marry the fibers. Place the two tail strips at the tie in spot. Pinch with thumb and forefinger, throw a soft loop over the strips and pull tight. Throw one more tight wrap over the strips directly in front of the first, then make sure the tail is sitting vertically as you want it. Add a couple more tight wraps. Trim the tail butts, or begin the underbody by winding the thread tightly over the butts. |
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(4) By dubbing loop or twisting the fur onto the thread, build the brown fur body. |
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(6) Select a pair of body feathers from a Hen Pheasant. Prepare them by flattening the stems with flat pliers where the tie in wraps will be, and bending the stems on an angle as shown. Tie in the wings. If they don't sit vertically, use the pliers to twist the stems. Keep adjusting until the wings sit right. Add a drop of cement at the tie in spot. |
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(8) Make several turns of hackle, making sure the fibers sweep back. Tie off the hackle, and then switch to a red thread. |
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(9)
Make a dubbing mixture by cutting small pieces of red wool yarn, and pulling
the strands apart until it is a uniform dubbing. Twist the red dubbing thinly
onto the thread and make a shapely head. Make a few more wraps of red thread,
then whip finish. |
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PATTERNS |
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Tag: oval silver tinsel |
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Tag: oval gold tinsel |
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Tag: oval
silver tinsel |
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Tag: oval gold tinsel |
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Tag: oval silver tinsel |
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Tag: flat gold tinsel and light olive floss |
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Tag: oval silver tinsel and yellow floss |
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Tag: gold tinsel |
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Tag: silver tinsel |
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Tail: red Goose and barred Wood Duck |
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Tag: oval gold tinsel |
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Tag: oval gold tinsel and yellow silk floss |
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Tag: flat silver tinsel |
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Tag: silver tinsel |
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Tag: oval silver tinsel |
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Tag: silver tinsel |
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Tail: Wood Duck |
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(1)
If tying on a blind eye hook, attach the twisted gut eye or snell (a straight
leader of gut with a loop on the end) with thread wraps, and wind thread
down to a spot roughly even with the point of the hook. Note: a reasonable
'modern' hook for these flies is the Mustad 3366. For the Lake flies,
the sizes would range from about 4 to 2/0.
(3)
Build up an underbody that is slightly tapered (as shown) with thread
wraps. At the tail, attach a piece of slightly larger oval tinsel.
(5)
If using spiky fur such as Seal, trim the fur body to shape. Wind five
even turns of tinsel, leaving a small space at the shoulder.
(7)
Prepare a schlappen or saddle feather by folding the fibers. Hold the
feather by the tip with a hackle pliers (good side up), and use the fingers
of the opposite hand to stroke the fibers of both sides down, into a 'V'.
Trim the tip, then tie firmly to the hook exactly where the wing is.
(9)
Make a dubbing mixture by cutting small pieces of red wool yarn, and pulling
the strands apart until it is a uniform dubbing. Twist the red dubbing thinly
onto the thread and make a shapely head. Make a few more wraps of red thread,
then whip finish.
Cassard
Claret
Montreal
Fiery
Brown
Goldenrod
Grasshopper
Hill
Fly
King
of the Woods
Kingfisher
Klamath
Lord
Baltimore
McLeod
New
Lake
Parmachene
Beau
Parmachene
Belle
Sheenan
Yellow
Betsy




