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Henk's Linked Pike Streamer
Sydney Opera Mouse
Messy Pike Fly
Big fish fly: Not one of Martin Joergensen's usual pike flies. For that it is way too complex and has too many tying steps and too many different materials. He doesn't like complex pike flies. "I spend dozens of minutes tying one, and a pike spends seconds shredding it!" he says.
He ties it just the same in this article.
Sören and Sara
A pike fisher and his fly: Senior pike fisher Sören Essebo invited junior pike fisher Kasper Mühlbach for a day of... pike fishing at the South Swedish coast. Besides fishing they talked about Sörens web site, publishing on the internet and why he has fallen in love with White Pike Sara.
Join the two for a day here.
Read the whole original article
This is an almost neutral density pike pattern that, unlike deer hair streamers (which float), or e.g. the Valeur pattern (which has a fairly rapid descent rate) fishes in, or just below the surface.
Good for summer pike fishing in shallow waters, such as the Dutch polder areas or shallow lakes. Bucktail does not absorb much water, so although fairly large, this is not an overly difficult pattern to cast. The articulated nature of the pattern, (it consisting of two halves separated by a length of fly line) gives it two advantages:
1) Better casting - more flexible.
Bucktail does make for an intensively mobile pattern while fished in short strip retrieves, veritably pulsating with life. Vary the overall retrieve rate with weather/water temperature, with faster retrieves at higher temps.
Henk's Linked Pike Streamer
The first step in tying this pattern is to attach the length of fly line to the trailing hook. Put the hook in the vice and attach the thread. Bring it to a point opposite the hook point. Cut the fly line at a shallow angle, thread through the eye of the hook (I prefer down-eye hooks for this), and bring back to where the thread is hanging free. The fly line will be on the underside of the shank, and the long end nearest the shank. Make sure the curve, which there will undoubtedly be in the old line, is in the plane of the hook, preferably down. Cover the fly line with the thread in open wraps all the way to the eye, making certain not to twist the curve of the line out of the plane of the hook. Then bring the thread back in close, tight wraps. Make a single half hitch and cover the entire wrap with flexament.
Create the tail from three short clumps of the crinkly hair, tied in all around the shank. Comb out well. Make a veil around this tail with two clumps of bucktail, not stacked, one tied on top of the shank, the other on the underside. Spin the thread tightly before tying in bucktail, so that the thread will really dig into the hairs. The unstacked bucktail should not extend beyond the crinkly hair. Clip and cover the butts, and make a nice head with the red chenille. Make a whip finish and remove the hook from the vice.
Put the front hook in the vice, attach the tying thread and clip the fly line to size; end in a shallow angle. The length should be such that there will be about a shank length (trailer hook) of fly line between the two hooks. Attach the line to the top of the front hook, wrapping tightly, but making sure the trailer hook rides point up, and does not twist. Coat with flexament. Make a red chenille butt, to help spread the bucktail. Make a largish bucktail wing on the front hook, with two clumps of stacked bucktail. The wing should extend to about half the trailerÂ´s length. For a relatively short front hook, like the Gamakatsu F314, one wing is enough.
For longer hooks, a second wing will be needed, having its own clump of chenille to spread it. Taper the butts of the bucktail, and cover with tying thread. Leave about 21.5-2 cm for the head, which is make from Fritz wrapped in tight turns forward. Make sure you stroke the Fritz fibers back after each turn, to make a neat-looking, and dense head. Neat looking is to please yourself, and your fellow tiers ;-) ; dense is to create more water displacement so as to catch more pike...