Summer pike fishing
Henk's linked pike streamer

Click to see the whole fly By Henk Verhaar

This colorful fly is an almost neutral density pike pattern that fishes in, or just below the surface. It is excellent for summer pike fishing in shallow waters.

This is an almost neutral density pike pattern that, unlike deer hair streamers (which float), or e.g. the Valeur pattern (which has a fairly rapid descent rate) fishes in, or just below the surface.
See how to make such a tippet
Good for summer pike fishing in shallow waters, such as the Dutch polder areas or shallow lakes. Bucktail does not absorb much water, so although fairly large, this is not an overly difficult pattern to cast. The articulated nature of the pattern, (it consisting of two halves separated by a length of fly line) gives it two advantages:

1) Better casting - more flexible.
See how to make such a tippet
See how to make such a tippet
2) Better holding - less shank leverage.

Bucktail does make for an intensively mobile pattern while fished in short strip retrieves, veritably pulsating with life. Vary the overall retrieve rate with weather/water temperature, with faster retrieves at higher temps.
See how to make such a tippet
See how to make such a tippet
See tying instructions below
See how to make such a tippet

More pike flies
Wiggle Bug 
Valeur's pike fly
Monster Muddler
Tippets for pike

See how to make such a tippet
Danville flat
waxed nylon,
size A, white


TMC 700, size 4
(or similar strong
hook in a suitable


Gamakatsu F314
size 1/0
(or VMC, size 3/0)


Bucktail and super
hair (or similar
superfine crinkly
synthetic fibre)


Red chenille

Length of old fly
line, belly section


Red chenille

Bucktail, preferably
different colour
from the tail hook


Fritz, estaz,
ice chenille,
dense colour

Fly line link between hooks
The soft fly line links makes the fly much more flexible than the heavy, stiff monofilament traditionally used for tandem flies.
The first step in tying this pattern is to attach the length of fly line to the trailing hook. Put the hook in the vice and attach the thread. Bring it to a point opposite the hook point. Cut the fly line at a shallow angle, thread through the eye of the hook (I prefer down-eye hooks for this), and bring back to where the thread is hanging free. The fly line will be on the underside of the shank, and the long end nearest the shank. Make sure the curve, which there will undoubtedly be in the old line, is in the plane of the hook, preferably down. Cover the fly line with the thread in open wraps all the way to the eye, making certain not to twist the curve of the line out of the plane of the hook. Then bring the thread back in close, tight wraps. Make a single half hitch and cover the entire wrap with flexament.

Create the tail from three short clumps of the crinkly hair, tied in all around the shank. Comb out well. Make a veil around this tail with two clumps of bucktail, not stacked, one tied on top of the shank, the other on the underside. Spin the thread tightly before tying in bucktail, so that the thread will really dig into the hairs. The unstacked bucktail should not extend beyond the crinkly hair. Clip and cover the butts, and make a nice head with the red chenille. Make a whip finish and remove the hook from the vice.

Chock tippet attached to main hook.
   A heavy shock tippet is necessary to keep the pike's teeth from ripping over the line. This one is made from thin piano wire - an excellent material for the purpose.
Put the front hook in the vice, attach the tying thread and clip the fly line to size; end in a shallow angle. The length should be such that there will be about a shank length (trailer hook) of fly line between the two hooks. Attach the line to the top of the front hook, wrapping tightly, but making sure the trailer hook rides point up, and does not twist. Coat with flexament. Make a red chenille butt, to help spread the bucktail. Make a largish bucktail wing on the front hook, with two clumps of stacked bucktail. The wing should extend to about half the trailer's length. For a relatively short front hook, like the Gamakatsu F314, one wing is enough.

For longer hooks, a second wing will be needed, having its own clump of chenille to spread it. Taper the butts of the bucktail, and cover with tying thread. Leave about 21.5-2 cm for the head, which is make from Fritz wrapped in tight turns forward. Make sure you stroke the Fritz fibers back after each turn, to make a neat-looking, and dense head. Neat looking is to please yourself, and your fellow tiers ;-) ; dense is to create more water displacement so as to catch more pike...


User comments
GFF staff comment
From: Martin Joergensen · martin·at·  Link
Submitted July 2nd 2011


Well, not here at least! We don't sell anything. You may be able to get your local flyshop to tie some. Direct them to this page, and let them have a go!


From: Don Rothlisberger · crossbarr·at·  Link
Submitted July 2nd 2011

how do i buy this lure

From: Rick Nelson · bluebill·at·  Link
Submitted January 21st 2007


In the pictures it appears there is a bead on the front hook. Is that the case?


Rick Nelson

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