What a fly! I wasn't sure if I wanted to put this one in the swap, but after debating with myself, and what else would I do with 15 of such a fly that I'd not want to reproduce again, I said what the hey they will make nice Christmas Presents.
1. First start the thread in the middle of the hook and attach the copper tinsel. Make a half hitch and wrap the copper down the shank to the bend and a bit beyond then back to the thread Wrap down the tinsel and clip it, then tie it back in on the far side of the hook. If you simply fold over the tinsel, you'll create a bump and
you'll have a harder time positioning the tinsel. It's important to position the oval and the flat, beside each other and the oval has to be lower than the flat. The flat is to be nearer the top of the back of the hook. I used a Renzetti Traveler vise to do this and I wouldn't recommend tying it without a rotating vise.
2. Bring the thread near the eye, 1/4 inch away. Take the DMC and cut a length that is 8 inches. Pull 2 strands out. Take each strand and separate it into two strands then take all four and tie them in. You will have a better, flatter floss body this way. Wrap the floss to the tailing position and come back 2-3 turns of floss or about 1/16 inch. Wrap the thread to the floss and make 3 turns of thread over the floss. As a material holder I used a piece of tape because the spring kept falling off and getting in the way. I then put all 3 materials in the tape, I had the tinsels in it before.
3. Then choose a silver pheasant feather that is half -n- half. You know
we who buy the skins always have those nice feathers with nothing to do with them There are only 10 to 12 on a skin. I choose the middle ones with a firm stem. I found out the hard way not to use the thin quilled ones. I thought they would wind better, but they broke at the first turn. After picking out the feather, pull
it's fibers back and double them to one side, if you can't or don't know how to do this, then don't worry, they will double after the hackle is wound Tie it in by the tip and wind the thread over the tip to the eye, cut the excess.
4. Take the floss and continue wrapping to the eye making a smooth flat body.
5. Take the flat copper and start the rib and make sure you wrap to the right of the silver pheasant but edge the tinsel right next to the feather. Continue wrapping to the eye, making 5 turns of copper. The first few of these I made bo boos, but I didn't notice after they were done. Then take the oval and wrap it to the left of the copper to the eye and tie off. Take the feather and try to preen the fibers to the left of the quill as you wrap the feather. The feather's quill should hug the left side of the oval gold tinsel. All this sounds hard but after you tie a few, you'll get the hang of it. BTW you can substitute silver badger for the pheasant. Then after the body is done, make a couple of half hitches and take a break. I could only do 3 -4 of these at a setting before I needed abreak.
6. Choose pairs of Jungle Cock eyes near the end of the cape. These should be long feathers with a nice eye. I cemented the ones I used with a vinyl cement such as Dave's Flex-cement. Let them dry then measure them to the hook and tie them in one on each side of the shank don't strip the stems, but trip them so there is short "razor stubble for the thread to catch".
7. Then chose a pair of Barred Woodduck flank that have a wide white band. Cut a narrow section that will be long enough to reach from the eye to just shy of the second "eye". Some of these had a mind of their own so I cemented them to the JC. Try not to cement the white tip section Place the woodduck strip next to the eye and tie in.
8. Make a smooth head and whip finish. I used 2 coats of clear head cement and I turned the flies on a rod turner to keep the heads even.