Published Apr 18th 2012

Brenda - Brenda's Mother - Brenda's Sister



My attraction to the Brenda lies first and foremost in its color. Rainbow and yellow Golden Pheasant! What's not to like?

The original Brenda was tied by Danish fly angler and tyer Ove Monrad and incorporates a brass bead to give it some weight. We rarely see brass beads on coastal flies, but personally I find that flies with heavy beads and cones do very well on the coast, and the added weight in the front results in a very sexy, jigging motion in the water when the fly is retrieved in small strips. You find the same principle and motion in flies such as Raoul Kempkes's Perfect Woolly Bugger not to mention the renown Jiggy.

There's a variation called Brenda's Mother. Larger, longer and unweighted, using yellow golden pheasant feathers for the hackles, but it's essentially the same pattern. My personal favorite is the weighted version, but I will most likely tie the smaller, weighted flies using GP feathers. Brenda's Sister, maybe?
I will most likely tie the smaller, weighted flies using GP feathers. Brenda's Sister, maybe?

Yellow Omoe Brush - This B/W scan dates 15 years back, but was my first stab at an Omoe Brush using yellow GP feathers
Yellow Omoe Brush
I may also break the original pattern by cutting down on the number of hackles. The prescription says hackle fibers for a tail and four body hackles, but I think a tail, a middle hackle and a front one will do.

The fly is said to have been inspired by Ken Bonde Larsen's Omoe Brush, and while I can see the resemblance in the row of hackles, I still find this a distinctly different fly and one that certainly exists in its ow right. Oddly enough I used to tie an Omoe Brush using light dubbing and yellow GP feathers many years ago - not unlike a dull Brenda without a bead. It's been years since I tied and fished this fly, but I still remember catching a few seatrout on it. I only have a small, B/W image of this fly.

Golden rainbow


TypeCold saltwater fly
Ove Monrad
Target species
Sea trout (sea run)

HookPartridge Sea Streamer CS11 #6 or other suitable salt water resistant straight eye hook
ThreadYellow, tan or red 8/0
Bead4 mm brass bead
TailTan rooster hackle fibers plus some flash
HacklesFour tan rooster hackles - two smaller, two larger
BodyFlash dubbing, yellowish rainbow colored

1 - bead - Slip the bead onto the hook. Leave it loose for now and set the hook in the vice
1 - bead
2 - thread base - I like to build a thread base under the bead for a tighter fit
2 - thread base
3 - super glue - Whip finish, cut tags and add a drop of super glue to the thread wraps
3 - super glue
4 - position bead - Press the bead onto the thread wraps and let the glue set
4 - position bead
5 - start the thread - Start the thread behind the bead. Cut the tag
5 - start the thread
6 - tail fibers - Select a long fibered rooster feather for the tail and use the fluffiest of the barbs
6 - tail fibers
7 - tail - Position the bunch of barbs to form a tail about shank length
7 - tail
8 - tail done - The tail is done
8 - tail done
9 - flash - Pass a couple of straws of flash under the thread and double them
9 - flash
10 - flash - Pull the flash to the rear over the tail and tie down with a few wraps
10 - flash
11 - trim flash - Trim the flash to about the same length as the tail
11 - trim flash
12 - hackle selection - Select a suitable hackle to tie in over the tail. Barb length should be slightly larger than the hook gape
12 - hackle selection
13 - tie in 1st hackle - The first hackle sits right over the tail. Tie it in curved side forward
13 - tie in 1st hackle
14 - wrap hackle - Take 2-3 wraps of hackle right where the tail starts
14 - wrap hackle
15 - stroke back - Tie down the hackle, cut the remains and stroke it back over the tail
15 - stroke back
16 - 1st hackle - Wrap the thread over the hackle base a couple of turns to get it to fold towards the rear
16 - 1st hackle
17 - dub - Dub the thread with the rainbow flash dubbing
17 - dub
18 - dub - Wind the dubbing to cover the rear third of the hook shank
18 - dub
19 - 2nd hackle - Prepare the second hackle. The barbs should be longer than on the first
19 - 2nd hackle
20 - wrap the hackle - Wrap it in closing turns - 2-3 wraps. Tie down and cut surplus. It might look messy. We\\\'ll fix that
20 - wrap the hackle
21 - stroke back - Stroke back the fibers of the 2nd hackle and cover the base with a few wraps of thread
21 - stroke back
22 - 2nd hackle done - The second hackle sweeps back over the body and the tail
22 - 2nd hackle done
23 - dub - Dub the thread again. Sparsely... we\\\'re only covering 1/3 of the hook shank
23 - dub
24 - dub - Wrap the dubbing over the next 3rd of the hook shank. Remember that we need room for two more hackles and a bit of dubbing!
24 - dub
25 - 3rd hackle - The third hackle can be as long as the second one
25 - 3rd hackle
26 - wrap - Wrap the hackle i 2-3 turns and tie down
26 - wrap
27 - stroke back - Again, clip surplus, stroke it back and wrap over the base
27 - stroke back
28 - backswept - All the hackles should be sweeping back over the body as seen here
28 - backswept
29 - last dubbing - Add dubbing for the last bit of hook shank. Again sparsely
29 - last dubbing
30 - cover the gap - Cover the gap between the front hackle and the bead with dubbing, but leave space for a last hackle
30 - cover the gap
31 - last hackle - The last hackle should be slightly smaller than the previous two
31 - last hackle
32 - wrap it - Wrap it 2-3 turns and make sure it\\\'s buried securely in the gap between the dubbing and the bead. Tie down and trim
32 - wrap it
33 - last stroke - Stroke the last hackle back and wrap a few times into the groove between the dubbing and the bead to secure it
33 - last stroke



Seatrout flies for 2012
These are the patterns that I will introduce in my boxes for the 2012 season

User comments
From: Pike · pike007·at·  Link
Submitted April 19th 2012

Martin, I saw a lot of these fish in brackish water around Vastervik in Sweden. Can be found in Denmark too? Thanks

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