The two spots in the name of this fly comes from the bait, which it is supposed to imitate: the twospotted goby. Gobies - which are much like sculpins - are an extremely common kind of fish in the shallow parts of all bodies of water - fresh and salt, still and running.
Gobies - which are much like sculpins - are an extremely common kind of fish in the shallow parts of all bodies of water - fresh and salt, still and running.
This particular species is extremely common in the shallow spring water in the Baltic area, and is one of the many items on the menu for sea trout.
I have had good success with my old Fair Fly, which on a good day can easily be taken for a goby, but after having seen my girlfriend Birgitte's snorkeling pictures of the twospotted goby in its proper environment and heard her accounts of its large numbers, I wanted to tie something that was a little closer in size and color.
That meant a larger fly than my usual Fair Flies and a color scheme that was lighter than the nutria or mink I usually use for that pattern.
I dug into my storage of fur on skin and found a piece of rabbit, which I judged to have a suitable tone of brown. I usually defer from using rabbit for zonkers. Rabbit is too long haired for my general size of flies. But as this one was to be a bit larger, I thought less of hair length and more of color.
Next step was dubbing. My stock of Scintilla hid a suitable hue. Last was the hook, and after a few boxes had been turned over I found a box of size 2 of one of my favorite streamer hooks the Kamasan B800. The last bits: eyes and rib was collected, and I was ready.
|Type||Cold saltwater fly|
|Year of origin||2004|
|Tied by||Martin Joergensen|
|Target species||Sea trout (sea run)|
|Hook||Kamasan B800, size2|
|Rib||Medium oval silver tinsel|
|Body||Tan Scintilla or similar dubbing|
|Wing/tail||Light brown rabbit zonker strip|
|Eyes||Bead chain eyes|
|Hackle||Hair hackle made from rabbit hair from zonker strip|
|Head||Dubbed rabbit hair from zonker strip|
- Start the tying thread a bit behind the hook eye. You need space for the hair hackle and eyes in front of this point.
- Tie in the ribbing under the hook shank.
- Cover it with tying thread all the way to the hook bend. Open turns are OK
- Dub the body with an even, slightly conical, layer of dubbing up to the tie starting point
- Prepare a strip of rabbit by removing the fur from the tip 2 millimetres
- Tie in the strip
- Pull the strip to the rear, separate the fur right over the hook bend where the rib protrudes
- Take one tight turn of rib over the strip and under the hook to secure the rabbit
- Continue ribbing forwards in about five open turns
- Make sure you open the fur and turn the ribbing tightly over the skin itself
- Tighten the rib on the upwards move of the turn to avoid having the skin strip curl or rotate
- Tie down the rib and trim it
- Tie in the eyes on the underside of the hook shank just behind the hook eye
- Make sure there is room for a hair hackle between eyes and body
- Secure the eyes with figure-of-eight turns and maybe a drop of varnish or instant glue
- Take the thread back to right in front of the body
- Make a large loop for the hair hackle and mount a dubbing spinner in the loop
- Cut the hair off 1-2 centimetres or Â¾ inch of the rabbit strip
- Mount the hair in the dubbing loop. A bit of hard dubbing wax can aide this step
- Make sure the hair is trapped by the base and trim the stubs if needed
- Spin the loop to form a hair hackle
- Stroke the hairs back and take two or three turns in front of the body, but behind the eyes
- Tie down the hackle and trim the remains
- Dub the thread sparsely and cover the base of the eyes with dubbing
- Whip finish and varnish in front of the eyes
|Rabbit strip DIY|
Rabbit skins are really one of the least expensive materials you can buy. They come in a wealth of colors - natural and dyed - and can be found in many craft shops, hobby shops, furriers etc. Many shops even sell haf and quarter skins, which enables you to buy several colors and qualities for the price of one whole skin. And buying skins will give you a foundation for sonker strips, rabbit leech strips and dubbing.
I cut strips by hand, but with a simple method that enables me to cut narrow and straight strips without any special tools.
I arm myself with a razor blade. It has to be new and very sharp. Apart from that I use my vice, which I rotate to clamp horiontally.
Now I find the direction of the hair on the skin, select a spot along the edge where I have hairs pointing straight away from the edge, and clamp this spot into the vice with the skin side up.
Now I pull the skin towards myself and press a corner of the razor blade through the skin close to the vice jaws and draw it steadily towards myself. I start about ½-1 centimetres from the far endge and I don't cut all the way to the near edge. I usually cut several strips whithout moving the skin in the vice. As long as you can hold the cutting line tight. Leave the strips in the skin until you need them. They steady the skin for cutting more strips later on.