This is a marvelous site and despite tying tubes for many years it is always good to see the fresh ideas on here. On another very related subject can anyone help with some information about which areas to fish for Salmon and Sea Trout in Denmark? Not too expensive and where I don;t have to spend my days driving instead of fishing. Somewhere within reach of Copenhagen
Very nice! I would like to make my own glue sticks. If so could I get a resape for it, please:)
Thanks :)
Anyone got any info on fly fishing the Tromso aria of Norway, I have to be up there for ten days in July and could get a few days free.
Any ideas?
Many Thanks
AL
I sell on Amazon and I know it is not 'market manipulation' when it comes to rare, unique, out of print books. Since I have books on everything from making fly rods to tying, to best places to fly fish in the Americas. When you see an outrageously priced book, it may be one of a couple things: the seller offering is a dropshipper and does not have the book in stock or the price is what is called a price holder meaning the seller had the book at one time and is on the lookout through book sources to buy the book for their inventory again. They don't want to sell the book at that price, but when they relist they don't have to add all the info again. Also, may dropshippers will offer something at a higher price then contact a seller who has the book if the dropshipper happens to sell it to directly ship to their customer. Why anyone would buy from a dropshipper or a company using price holding, I'll never know, but it happens.
I would say your main problem was pulling the thread down on the same side as the wing is mounted (as pictured) rather than the stems being stacked and rolling. By pulling down, the main force is concentrated on the stems, but if you made a full loop and pulled up vertically, the main force is concentrated on the shank of the hook and the subsequent loop around the stems compresses down around the point of contact with the stems, thus not rolling them. Same would be applicable for the opposite wing, where you would make a full loop and still pull up, the primary force being concentrated on the under side of the shank
The exact same principle applies for mounting married wings on streamers, trout and salmon flies.
I also think, in my experience the widths of the stems of different feathers are for the most part, the same at the tie in point with an difference not being significant, unless you using genetic cape feathers (rather than saddle feathers),
The other alternative is to crush the stems at the angle you want them mounted on the side of the hook,, so they all end up flat against the shank (
everyone has a different way of doing things, none of which are wrong, but thread control is the deciding factor.
I agree , I use a pair of needle nose pliers and flatten the stem at the tie down area. Glue and me don't get along well.
Thanks for sharing your methods on here Stanley. I'm impressed at the depth and approach that you take in your streamer tying. I'm also in the flatten the stem with pliers group when needed. I really do like the idea of offsetting the stems and will give this a try on the next sets I glue up.
I didn't go into depth with my thread on the illustration because I guess I overlooked it. I usually do set the wing by pulling my thread vertically but actually did this in a short time. I have to provide for my priorities and can't spend much extra time on details. Thanks for your comments! This is for everyone in general. If your an traditionalist and want to glue your wings together by stacking them or crushing them and don't want to change. It's fine, but maybe just try it (if you have time) you might just like it or scrap it. Also I probably have the worst hands to mount wings that is why you see the gloves. So those loop and pull vertical while holding your wing and thread in left hand in impossible unless I have gloves. Dry winter is brutal on my both my hands, I can't do what Sharon Wright does in her book with the nail file. Thanks for the comments guys, have a great week Darren, Larry, and Eunan!
Here is another very simple low stress method to kill chickens. Cut their jugular. You'll need a very sharp knife for this.
Sit, stradling a bucket, hold the chicken in your lap on it's back, head down and over the bucket. They're actually very calm in this position. Hold it's head and pull the skin taught; they have very loose skin, so this is actually tricky. Tap just below their jawline a few times to numb the area, then slice until the blood flows freely. They'll twitch in your lap, but because you've been holding them securely, it's not a big problem. They'll bleed out in about 1 minute and the movement will cease.
Martin, very nice Squid tube fly. I see you haven't lost your touch. Amazing what a trout will eat. Best regards.
Richard
Hi,
Thank you very much for your comments. Jig hooks size 16 down are made even by other manufacturers - Hanak Competition, Hends Products (Czech Republic). They can be bought even in some European e-shops.
Have a nice day,
Petr
I don't understand the two narrow strips of pale blue flat tinsel tied in on the sides, before the body is wound on. Do you cover up the narrrow tinsel? If you do, what is the purpose of it.?
Some flies for new season 2015 y.
Elk hair body - two colors.
Оne of my favorites for the last 8 years for lake fishing and slow water.
This fly can be filled with different options and techniques, but the pleasure will always be for you.
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And silhouette of the fly - Back light:
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Green caddis - organza wing (variant):
Green caddis (variant):
Brown caddis - variant:
Caddis familly:
Hi Chris,
I'm going to Barbados next month (February) and would like to try fly fishing for bonefish and tarpon, if possible. Can you recommend specific spots on the island where I might have a shot at catching those species? Specific fly patterns?
Any other information you could provide me regarding fly fishing on Barbados would be much appreciated!
That's a beautiful tying job, Darren.
I've found the Whiting American necks & saddles to be highly variable in streamer quality; for every nice one like the one you used here, there's probably twenty or more junk ones that are very webby. That makes it tough to buy them through the mail, but I too have found that Ron McKusick is a good source for higher quality Americans.
Are you going to put this Darkside up on eBay?
Thanks Jim
I think I've had pretty good luck with the capes, I've only ever gotten one or two I wasn't really happy with. I find the dyed over whites will tend to have thicker stems, but I can usually find a good range of hackle. I think my biggest problem is the availability of colors sometimes, and I've ended up dying a few myself. :) Not sure if this one will make it to Ebay, but I'm planning on tying a couple more.
Darren I never knew Jack tied such streamers.
I have several of his books as well as having seen him several times at various shows, and never did I see such a streamer. Wonderful tye.
Hi, Martin.
These two options of the Newborn are experimental for now. I look forward to the season opening in BG to be tested.
Old two options are implemented without UV lacquer, the egg is made from polypropylene yarn. Old versions are effective in waters with moderate current. I hope the two new variants of the Newborn are also effective.
All the best.
Miro
Nice article,great little flies, @Matt: you can get the jig hooks through Allen Flyfishing, They make them down to a size 18,tight lines & bent rods.
A true switch should have possibillity to remove the 2-hand grip when using it singlehanded. If not it is a small twohander and not to good to use singlehanded. Spey has understood this, but I don't like the grip. Just got a 10,8 #5 Snowbee Switch and now I look for someone who can cut off the 2-hand grip and make a sollution to screw it on.
Seriously!? Not a problem? This Scierra Traxion was sold as a "saltwater resistant" reel.
No salt resistant reel should ever be able to end up like this. Even with the worst treatment. A bit of oxidation is hard to avoid, but rust beyond repair, requiring exchange to new and stainless parts? No way. They should have been stainless from the hand of the manufacturer.
And this was more than a spring. Actually the only thing I don't remember seeing was a rusty spring.
Pegs, washers, screws and more all were all very rusty and the aluminum housing itself was starting to oxidize. It would take more than a spring to get this back in shape. More like a forge and a hammer!
Martin
Not a problem, only iron-rusted spring need exchange to salt resist steel.After refresh will work as new.
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