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Old School with a twist

It seems that it's shrimps, shrimps and more shrimps if you want to tie flies for Baltic sea trout. Here are some old school alternatives – with a twist

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Shrimps galore
Shrimps galore
Henning Eskol, Ken Bonde Larsen, Martin Joergensen

Eyes, antennae, mouth parts, thorns, rubber legs, segmented shells, eggsacks, some LCR added and a hook embedded somewhere in there – oftentimes bent beyond recognition and turned upside down.

That seems to be the way that a vast majority of all flies for sea trout are made these days. It's shrimps, shrimps and more shrimps. Green, tan, pink, yellow or translucent. Red eyes, green eyes, orange eyes, black eyes and all kinds of odd things for legs. Maybe some foam just to rub it in.

Heeding the wise words of Bubba from Forest Gump:
“... shrimp is the fruit of the sea.
You can barbecue it, boil it, broil it, bake it, saute it.
Dey's uh, shrimp-kabobs, shrimp creole, shrimp gumbo. Pan fried, deep fried, stir-fried. There's pineapple shrimp, lemon shrimp, coconut shrimp, pepper shrimp, shrimp soup, shrimp stew, shrimp salad, shrimp and potatoes, shrimp burger, shrimp sandwich.
That - that's about it.”

I have to admit that I'm a bit tired of shrimp flies.

It's shrimps, shrimps and more shrimps

Big Hole Demons
Big Hole Demons
Martin Joergensen

Don't get me wrong.
I know that shrimp patterns work, even the odd ones.
I know that shrimps are very important food items.
I love shrimp patterns and have devised and tied a ton of them myself. Shrimp flies that look like shrimp and not like something from outer space, that is.

I have tied hundreds of shrimps, and I have at least a dozen shrimp flies in my box. It’s not like I don’t like shrimp patterns or don’t fish them. But I just see shrimp flies everywhere when people are tying flies for Baltic sea trout. This very site is a part of that trend. We literally have pages up and pages down with shrimp patterns for sea trout.

So to counter this shrimp trend a bit, I decided to do an article on some old school sea trout flies. Some of the ones that I have fished with for decades, and were fished by people who fished the Baltic coasts before me. Sure we have all these flies on this site already, and there's no reason to show them again, so to put a little spice into the dish, I have decided to do them with some variation.

Big Hole Demon with a twist

– different colors.

Badger Big Hole Demon
As tradition has it
Martin Joergensen

The Big Hole Demon in its Baltic sea trout style has been a favorite fly for decades on the coasts here. My good friend Niels Have – who is a very skilled fly tyer and angler – hardly fishes anything else on the coast. It’s a good looking pattern that produces.

It’s mostly tied in a black/silver/badger variation. It’s sometimes also seen in a tan/gold/brown color scheme and not rarely in orange or red. So it’s not like there aren’t any alternative versions to the original popularized by Dan Bailey, but originated by a Montana rancher called Pete Narancich. We have told the story about this fly already many years ago, and also shown the most common variations in the article Big Hole Demon from 2008. We also covered the streamer style: Big Hole Demon Streamer.

But black, red and brown is like so last year! Or rather so last decade ...

Purple Big Hole Demon
Yellow Big Hole Demon
Big Hole Demons
Martin Joergensen

How about a pink version? Or one in chartreuse? Or ... dare I ... a purple one? Baby blue or yellow, anyone?

It’s essentially just about finding the suitable feathers in any color, dig out some matching dubbing, chenille or yarn and have a go.

Tail and hackle can most likely be found on the same rooster neck or saddle. They are typically selected quite slender, shiny, and stiff, without too much web. Sometimes you can use the tips for tails, and the remainder of one or two feathers as the front body hackle, but I mostly use the really small feathers at the top of of a rooster neck for the tail, and pick a larger feather from the same skin for the hackle.

Personally I don’t mind the fly being a bit “over-hackled”, but some people might find it too bushy. The large hackle makes the fly hover and sink slowly unless you use a heavy hook or add some weight under the front body.

Pink Big Hole Demon
Pink Big Hole Demon
Martin Joergensen

Big Hole Demon with a twist

The Big Hole Demon is traditionally tied in a B/W version with badger hackle. This is simply some wild color variations of that fly. The trick is just to find a suitable rooster neck and some matching dubbing (or yarn) and tying thread and then have a go at the color game.

Materials
Hook Ahrex NS105 Streamer #2
Thread 6/0 to match fly color
Tail Two small rooster feathers to match fly color
Rear body Medium flat silver mylar tinsel
Front body Dubbing or yarn to match fly color
Front body hackle Rooster neck feather to match fly color
  1. Start the thread at the front third of the hook shank
  2. Select two small, straight rooster neck feathers from to top of the neck
  3. Remove the bottom barbs from the feathers, leaving about a shank length on the stem
  4. Pair the feathers shiney/curved sides out, aligning the tips
  5. Tie down on top of the hook shank, keeping the feathers vertical and parallel to the shank
  6. Take the thread forward to where it started
  7. If any stems stick out, trim them off
  8. Tie in the silver tinsel
  9. Wrap in touching turns to the hook band and back to the tie in point
  10. Cut and trim tinsel
  11. Select a larger feather from the same neck and remove the longest anf fluffiest barbs
  12. Tie it in shiny/curved side forwards and tip pointing away from you
  13. Use dubbing or yarn to create a cylindrical front body from the hackl to almost right behind the hook eye
  14. Wrap the hackle in 4-6 fairly close turns, stroking back the barbs
  15. Tie down and trim
  16. Form a small head, whip finish and varnish
Medium
Red Tags with a twist
Red Tags with a twist
Martin Joergensen

Red tag with a twist

– bright color tag, bright color hackle.

Coastal red tag with normal hackle
A classic Red Tag
Martin Joergensen

I have fished the Red Tag thousands of times on the coast, and will do so again many more times. It’s a favorite pattern of mine, and I always have a handful of them in my box. It’s taken fish for me under basically all conditions, but is particularly likely to find its place on my tippet when the water is calm and clear and when I’m fishing in the autumn.
I tied it pretty classic style: red yarn tag, peacock herl body and a soft, brown front hackle.
One variation has already celebrated its glory on the Danish coast, and that’s the purple hackle variation called Skyggen or The Shadow, which stems from the island Bornholm.

But why not take the variation a bit further?

The basic fly is the same: a tag, a peacock herl body and a front hackle, but in my variation I have matched the tag and the hackle, and found some colors that I like and I think make a pretty good fly.

Chartreuse Tag
Albino Red Tag
Chartreuse Tag and Albino Red Tag
Martin Joergensen
Really Red Red Tag
Really Red Red Tag
Martin Joergensen

Really Red Red Tag

This is the basic pattern - and essentially a Red Tag with a red front hackle. You can vary the color of the tag and hackle as you please to create a variation of wet flies. Keep the herl body and the rib, and go berserk with whatever color you fancy!

Materials
Hook Ahrex NS115 Deep Streamer #10 or #12
Thread Red 6/0 (or color to fit selected fly color)
Tag Red yarn (or color to fit selected fly color)
Rib Narrow, flat gold mylar tinsel
Body 3 peacock herl
Front hackle Red hen hackle (or color to fit selected fly color)
  1. Start the thread in the front of the fly
  2. Tie in the yarn for the tail and cover with open turns of thread to the hook bend
  3. Return thread to the front of the fly
  4. Trim the tail to be fairly short, just extending over the hook bend
  5. Tie in three peacock herl and cover to the hook bend with open turns of thread
  6. Tie in the flat gold tinsel in the rear and take thread forward to just behind the hook eye
  7. Wrap the peacock herl in close turns to the hook eye, leaving room for the front hackle
  8. Tie down and trim off surplus herl
  9. Follow with the tinsel in 5-6 open turns, opposite direction of the herl
  10. Tie down the tinsel and cut surplus
  11. Tie in the hackle, tip first, shiny/curved side forward
  12. Wrap in 4-6 turns depending on density
  13. Tie down and trim
  14. Form a small head, whip finish and varnish
Easy

Mickey Finn with a twist

– dull in stead of red and yellow.

Mickey Finn
The real Mickey Finn
Martin Joergensen

This isn’t really a Mickey Finn, but more like a classic shiner or smelt streamer. It’s a type of fly that’s rarely seen on the Baltic coasts these days.
When I started fishing the coast many decades ago, this was a fairly common style of fly, which had a clear inheritance from the classic US bucktail streamers. You would also see Thunder Creeks and Clousers.

These patterns are rarely seen in a Danish coastal flybox nowadays.

That’s a pity, because the bucktail streamer is a very efficient style of fly. It might not be easy to tie well in spite of its humble appearance, but it certainly doesn’t require much in the form of materials.
In this incarnation it’s a ribbed tinsel body and a bucktail wing – light, dark, light like the Mickey Finn’s yellow, red, yellow. It doesn’t get much simpler, but it still looks like a small fish, and is easy to cast and fish with no fuss.

Olive Bucktail Streamer
Tan Bucktail Streamer
Bucktail Streamers
Martin Joergensen

You can vary the colors as you please, but I have opted for some fairly light and earthy colors. The tan version is simply natural bucktail, and the olive and blue ones are natural white bucktail, and olive respectively blue dyed bucktails supplied hairs for the darker part.

In my eyes one of the keys to a good looking bucktail streamer is to dress it sparsely and use very small tufts of bucktail. I tried counting the hairs in my flies, and my best estimate is that there are about 20-30 single hairs in each small bunch, so less than 100 in a full wing. You don’t have to count the hairs, but do keep the small bunches really sparse. It makes the fly look better and also makes it easier to tie. I stack these bunches in the hand to get the tips even, but not totally even.

Also, the wing should ride low, which can be obtained by making the thread foundation under the wing flat and parallel to the hook shank (and not tapered towards the hook eye), and make sure the hair doesn’t flare when tied in. Keep the wing on top of the hook, and strive to make the head as small as possible. It will grow big almost no matter what because it’s covering the hair butts, but few wraps between the bunches is a key to limiting its size.

Blue Bucktail Streamer
Blue Bucktail Streamer
Martin Joergensen

Not a Mickey Finn

The yellow-red-yellow wing of the classic Mickey Finn is now just light-dark-light - here white-some•color-white - creating a generic bucktail streamer

Materials
Hook Ahrex NS118 Classic Streamer #2
Thread 6/0 black
Rib Medium oval silver tinsel
Body Medium flat silver mylar tinsel
Wing Three very sparse bunches of bucktail, 1½ times shank length, light-dark-light
  1. Start the thread in the front of the hook, leaving a little space for the head
  2. Tie in the oval tinsel under the shank and cover it in touching turns to the hook bend
  3. Take the thread back to the tie-in point in touching turns
  4. Tie in the silver tinsel and wrap in touching turns to the hook bend and back, creating a smooth and fully covered body
  5. Tie down the tinsel and trim
  6. Follow by the rib in open turns. A long streamer hook probably requires 8-10 turns of rib
  7. Tie down the rib under the hook shank and trim surplus
  8. Create a cylindrical, non-tapered foundation for the wing
  9. Tie in three very small bunches of bucktail - light-dark-light
  10. Prepare each by cutting off a bunch from the skin
  11. Remove short hairs and any underwool by firmly grabbing the tips and pulling the stems
  12. Hand stack by pulling out the longest hairs and aligning the tips with the bunch
  13. Repeat pulling out the longest hairs and aligning until most of the tips are nicely aligned
  14. Remove any crooked or stray hairs
  15. Measure the length of the wing. It should be about 1½ shank lengths
  16. Grab the butts at this length and cut off
  17. Tie in right over the end of the tinsel body with a couple of semi-tight thread wraps
  18. Make sure the bunch is on top of the shank and not rolling, spreading or flaring
  19. Tie down the butts with a few very tight turns
  20. Prepare the next bunch like the first
  21. Remove a few of the thread wraps and place it exactly on top of the first one
  22. A couple of emin-tight turns and then some tight ones
  23. Repeat with the last bunch in the same manner
  24. When all three sit there, form a head as small as you can, whip finish, cut thread and varnish
Medium
The coast is waiting for you!
Martin Joergensen
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