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Nada, Nada! The tarpon win again...

Ambergris Caye


Gentle people
The Belizians are a strange and charming mix of Mayans, Caribbeans and assorted other groups of people and colors of skin. Their attitude towards strangers seems to be one of kindness and curiosity more than plans of exploiting the stupid and rich tourists.

The country does not seem poor as such, but of course you will see places that are more South American than American or Western European. Even so the standard of living seems acceptable, and beggars and thieves are far apart. We had no problems whatsoever during our stay, and quickly learned that we could leave our packs on the public beaches while swimming and our clothes on the piers while snorkeling. No one approached us with offers except a few kids selling bracelets and the wood carvers selling their craft on the beach and in the main street. All of them accepted a no thanks at first prompt, and never did we feel that we were pushed or pressured.

For sale - A storm or one of the hurricanes Mitch or Kieth decided to move this house a bit closer to the water. The owner obviously decided to move it too. Yes, it is for sale...
For sale
Boats on the beach - The scene on the beach is very much a scene of piers and boats. People walk along, boats come and go and the piers are central to many businesses and host shops and small restaurants.
Boats on the beach
Drive - Navigating the narrow streets of San Pedro in the small golf carts can be everything from highly entertaining to scary.
House - Some of the houses are quite beautiful with happy colors and nice locations. This one on the north part of the island marks the end of a dump and the beginning of a faily rich and well maintained neighborhood. The muddy lagune to the right held bonefish by the way...

In the shops we were allowed to browse the goods with no one on our necks - all a very pleasant change compared to many other tourist destinations.
Most people speak English without problems, but both Spanish, Mayan, Creole and Jamaican English is heard. US dollars are accepted everywhere as is the Belizian counterpart, worth about half a US$ per BZ$. Credit cards are readily accepted in most businesses.
Housebuilding - Just across the road from our hut - as in many other places on Ambergris Caye - somebody was building a house. With an amazing speed and very little safety people were working all around the clock... except for the hottest midday hours.
Maya\'s Kaput - We soon babtized the resort we lived in Maya\'s Kaput. Few things worked, the rooms were really primitive and during our two weeks stay we had no change of towels or bed linnen and no - zero, zilch, none, nada - toilet paper, which we had to buy ourselves. On top of that the owner started talking about charging us for water and electrity! No reason to say that he did not get a dime extra.
Maya's Kaput

The price level is high - almost European levels - so do not expect a dirt cheap holiday.

A place to live
Accommodation is nowhere near luxurious. If you want the best, you might find it in some of the remote resorts, but in town the level seems somewhere between very low and acceptably high.

We had rented cabins in a place called Mayas Katut, which was a catastrophy! The owner had obviously sold the place between us reserving and arriving, and the place was now mostly inhabited by women of 'a doubtful reputation'. The location is way out of town away from the beach. Our room was cleaned once in two weeks, sheets and towels were not changed once and we had to buy our own toilet paper! All for 35 US$ per day per person! Not recommended!

Some decided to move to a place called Hideaway, which was the same price level, but orders of magnitudes better (Update: Hideaway seems to have closed since our stay). For the real cheapskate Ruby's on Barrier Reef Drive (front street) seems a good choice, and for the more picky both Banyan Bay and Ramon's Village seems good choices.


Ruby\'s - Ruby\'s, or Rubies as it is sometimes referred to, is a very nice little place where you can pick up sandwiches, cakes, coffee and juice. The place is very popular with both locals and tourists. Eat in the busy shop or go around the building and enjoy your meal viewing over the ocean, sheltered from the sun, cooled by the sea breeze.
Rubie's (or Ruby's)
Fascinating place, good bakery, cheap lodging.

The Reef
Dirt cheap local restaurant. Located in the northern end of Pescador Drive (middle street) - the second street from the beach.

Nice place with a large Caribbean selection. Located in the very south end of the first street facing the beach.

Nice place to eat. Good quality and selection, which is reflected in the prices.

More places to eat...

A room with a view - This is another part of the veiw from our hut in the terrible Mayas Katut. The family across from us was large with many kids, and entertained us every night with song a guitar playing through an open door adding some sombre relief from the horrible outdated disco and rock streaming from the bar on the other site of the resort.
A room with a view
Has cheap rooms too…

Mayas Katut
Do not use it!!!

More places to stay...

Golf carts
Overload - The golf cart was close to its limit when we left with all our luggage and three people on board. It managed without a glitch.
We used cars from American owned Cars'r'us and were satisfied with the service even though we had a couple of breakdowns. The prices seemed negotiable and fair. Located on Coconut Drive across from Ramon's Village close to the airport just outside town.

An other rental business is Mocho's. They have information online.

Most locations mentioned can be found on this small town map.

San Pedro main street - San Pedro is a small laid back town with mainly dirt streets. This is a particularly slow
San Pedro main street
Piers - The piers are central to both social life, business and infrastructure on Ambergris Caye. Here you see the bus stop for the water bus to Belize City on the mainland.

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