Thanks for the comment, I was a bit limited with the Canon G5, because it is a compact, albeit with SLR
features apart from the lens, but I now have a 40D with additional lenses so I will be experimenting. The 100mm macro lens makes a good portrait lens as well as the normal macro which I have used to take some insect pictures.
love anything like this,envy people that can draw and paint well done, When i start to paint with water colours i feel as if i should stick to painting back doors and sheds take care Jan Johansen
David,
I generally concur with Jerry in his post. Personally I have only few fresh water patterns in my box, and the ones I won't be without are:
- CDC&Elk - a caddis dry. An Elk Hair Caddis will also do
- Klinkhamer - an emerger type fly. Quite large, but very efficient.
- Hare's Ears Nymp - a universal nymph. I carry both with and without weight, and some really small ones too
- Copper John - a heavy nymph. I tie them a bit simpler than John Barr's original
- Some terrestrials - large hoppers, ants, beetles, many of them foam flies
- A few wet flies like Red Tag, March Brown and the like for the odd downstream swing
- Assorted local patterns depending on hatches, recommendations from guides, shops, fellow anglers etc.
Martin
To bad you feel that way about wet flies. I am 73 yrs old have been fishing Nymphs for over 50 yrs I also
teach Nymph fishing here in Michigan. I started using the old stile wet flies last summer, like the wickams
fancy and the winged hares ear and a few more old patterns, I am a guide here on the Muskegon river and
my friends thought I was nuts to use them old flies. I never caught so many nice fish, some 20 inch browns
and rainbows. I can tell you one thing it's not the flies that are so effective it's the way you fish them, that
makes the the big difference.
Thank you for these great suggestions. I plan to build my first home made shooting head tomorrow.
Do you have any suggestions for fly casting from a kayak?
If you ever plan a holiday in Florida, contact me. I'll take you fishing.
David:
Two that I would have in my box, actually have in my box would be the CDC and Elk and the Usual. I also carry a pattern loosely based on one called Quigley's Cripple/Emerger. Another pattern that's worked for brookies up in Vermont is one called the Nalle Puh. If you don't tie, you might have trouble finding these, though the Quigley pattern might be available on line or in catalogs, and it's possible the Usual may also be available. My nymphs are pretty limited. Pheasant Tail Nymphs tied with a bead head and soft hackle in Natural, Olive and Brown. Some hares' ear nymphs tied the same way and the old Pennsylvania standby the Green Weenie.
The drys are range from size 12 to size 20. The nymphs range from size 12 to 26.
Dear Martin, in fact fishes are most important ,even i you put them to the water.Most important is biting and draging. We still hunters. Best wishes
Hello Janess
This article is one of the best winter fly fishing stories I have ever read, I really enjoyed it.
I fish for coarse fish only on the fly. Roach, chub, perch, pike etc.
Any more information on fly fishing for coarse fish would be fantastic.
Once again well done and thankyou.
David,
I don't have much experience with kits, but I bought a handful of spools Maxima in different thicknesses in Walmart for almost nothing, and that stock has served me well as a foundation for leaders for several years now.
You can in general opt for most monofilament for the butt part of your leaders. You might want to be a bit more picky with the tippet, where breaking strain and knot strength has a great influence on performance. Some 4-5 spools plus tippet will roughly cover you for most leaders if you are not completely hysterical about the formulas. You might also take your starting point in Steve Schweitzer's [url=http://globalflyfisher.com/fishbetter/leadercalc/]LeaderCalc[/url] and make your shopping list from a well defined formula.
My Maxima i rather stiff - other brands are more supple. This does have influence on the finished leader, although not as much as you would think in my opinion.
Martin
Ken Bonde, thanks for your answer. I will test it during my trip to Denmark in March together with Partridge CS11.
I used to tied all similar flies on Kamasan hooks but they seems to me too heavy.
Pike....
The hook I used for Magnus and Grey Fred is Tiemco`s TMC 777SP - a very nice shaped hook, and very SHARP:-) But any other "medium-length" streamerhook might do the work..
Ken Bonde
They will work on any warm/cold water predotary specimen that chase on bait fish :)
I love these streamers very light and easy to cast into the wind !!
Martin, would you be so kind and could you tell me the type (brand) of hook you use for this fly? I have noticed, the same type is used for Grey Frede too and I really like it.
Thanks a lot.
Thanks Göran for commenting my picture. I am happy you enjoy this photo. In that stream were some really nice trouts , but very very shy- so I had to be very patient.
tight line Andrej
your ant pattern works great; caught a 28 inch rainbow in a california northern lake last year.I use .016 monofilament for the legs, and use a warm to hot needle over a candle to make a bend in the leg.I use a black marker pen to color the legs.Thanks for sharing your pattern.If you like I would send you my version of the ant. THANKS John
Google "Nail Spoon flies". there was an article in the summer '98 Fly Tier Magazine
It shows how to tie spoon style flies using fake finger nails
Like a cameleon...surrounding colours are curiously picked up..."internals" display nicely!
There's some trimmed mylar inside this one...opal like, it comes and goes depending on light angles...
[img:d7f5bf2ba6]http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa176/Phracas/P1290136.jpg[/img:d7f5…]
[img:d7f5bf2ba6]http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa176/Phracas/P1290143.jpg[/img:d7f5…]
I enjoy epoxy!...Tuffleye? I was sceptical at first, but the more I use it, the more I likle it...
The learning curve is not as steep as the initial sticker price (core/finish/light/ac adaptor)...
The concept and application will open the door to some interesting horizons!
For the price of a few Cuban cigars and/or maybe a single malt, it's a great new on-the-edge tool !
[b:d7f5bf2ba6]Flying Circus...[/b:d7f5bf2ba6]
[img:d7f5bf2ba6]http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa176/Phracas/SchoolingKandi-1.jpg[/…]
ALL HAIL [i:d7f5bf2ba6]das Decapod Crustacean[/i:d7f5bf2ba6]!...
[img:d7f5bf2ba6]http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa176/Phracas/OdetoaSHRIMP.jpg[/img:…]
If you do a whip-finish with a tool in slow-motion, you can figure out how to replace the hooks on the tool with your finger.
I've been whip-finishing by hand for a bazillion years now, the only thing is I put a bodkin in the loop when I pull it down into the knot so that I have tension on the loop.
The thread that's winding around the hook is the thread attached to the head. You're just winding it over the thread coming out of the bobbin. It's basically a half-hitch with multiple wraps.
great video Martin, thanks ...I will certainly give it a try.
Regards,
Ruan,
Steve,
It's difficult to explain more precisely than the video combined with the illustrations in the original article - linked above.
I don't know what you mean by "fingers are twisting from one to the other", but the thread is kind of moving from one finger to the other. The fingers switch places for each round.. in order to stay attached to the hand! ;-)
But look at the illustrations and the video again and you might see it.
Martin
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