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Martin, thanks for the information. Duck season has just started here in New York State and I was fortunate to have met a duck hunter who gave me 7 duck carcasses of Mallards and Wood ducks. Skinning wasn't as bad as I had thought it would be and I was able to get most off in one piece. I will clean with a mild detergent and let them sit in Borax for a few days to die them out. Your steaming suggestion with be a great asset on ce the hides dry. Thank you.

Pete!
Simply gorgeous! Every new fly from you is a great joy to see. Keep showing...

Cheers

Jan

Submitted by Chuck on

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Like David above, I have always had mixed results with the wooly bugger. But this weekend, I tied up a few in black and a couple in brown, but I added a coil of lead under the body, and headed out to the Current River in SE Missouri. After nymphing without any luck, i tied on a huge black and caught a trout on the first cast. I kept throwing it, and they kept taking it. I think I had caught 10 or more before a fish snapped it off. But the spell was broken somehow... Using a different black, and then a brown, I couldn't get any more interest.

Submitted by Christopher on

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I have used real heron (grey), and it is amazing stuff. However when I can't use it my go to is goose, if used properly it looks great, try burning it yourself.

Submitted by Peter Stoltze on

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Martin, I think that Lars is thinking about shooting line. And true, if you just let go of the line then it has a slightly higher tendency to catch the handle if this is pointing inwards. My preferred method is therefore to form an O with my 1. and 2. finger, thus acting as an extra guide for the shooting line.
PS: 95 pct. right hand caster with the single handed rod, 50/50 with the double hander, 100 pct. left hand spooler ;-)

Submitted by Karl Baeten on

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I like and fish these flies for more than 40 years. Meanwhile I keep it more simple and just use thread as body and anykind of henhackle, died or natural. It doesn't matter. The size of the hook is far more important, Size 14 and 18 gave me the greatest pleasure.

Bill,

We send the thanks on to all thos who produce the videos. As you write: there's a lot of work in making these videos.

Regarding the pager, it's a standard pager. I have made a View All Videos Paged page where you can ask for more videos in a page in the top of the page - up to 600 and even 1200 per page, which renders only 8 respectively 4 pages. It takes significantly longer time to form a page, but will give a lot less leafing through pages to find a certain interval.

Is that something useful? Then I can add a similar link to the normal page.

Martin

Submitted by bill 1737246313 on

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Thank you to GFF and all the individuals who have taken the time, effort and, possibly, expense to share their patterns and tying techniques. Having done some video tutorials in other applications I know how much behind-the-scenes work it can take to get it right. I wish we had this when I was a kid trying to teach myself how to tie. Would've saved me a ton of time if I didn't have to go to the library or buy a book every time I wanted to see what a pattern looked like.

On a separate note, is there a search method for getting to a particular page? I'd like to see what's in the middle of the 250 pages of videos but it seems the only way to get there is by clicking through 1 page at a time or by clicking on the highest page number displayed to see the next few pages.

Thanks

Hello Jon,

Thank you for the interest and nice words about my reels.
As you probably has read in the article at the end, I encourage people to design and make there own flyreel when they have the skills and the equipment and use the article as a guidline and not to "copy" one of my reels. So I don't give any measurement drawings of my reels, I hope that you can understand that. Designing your first reel is a difficult part of the proces, making it your personal reel, but it is great to achieve. I hope that you can show me your reel in the near future!

Kind regards,

Tom.

Lars,

While I can see why you would want to avoid tangles, I have a bit more trouble understanding why the loose line would have a tendency to tangle significantly more on the casting hand side than on the retrieving hand side.

There's only loose line and risk of tangles until you have spooled it or the fish has drawn it through the tip top. Once the fish is on the reel, the problem isn't potential any more since the line goes in a direct line from the reel to the stripping guide or to your rod hand, controlling the line.

So this problem would occur while you are 1) picking up the slack or 2) the fish is running.

1) Why would picking up slack be less hazardous when done with the casting hand than when done with the other hand? When I spool line I usually grab it with the casting hand (since I retrieve and spool with the other) and squeeze it lightly against the handle and use that tension to control the line, which keeps the loose line away from the reel and makes even less likely to tangle.

2) When a fish runs with force (like a bonefish or a tarpon) I hold the line clear of the stripping guide (and the reel) with the hand not holding the rod, and whether that is the casting hand or not, and whichever way the handle points can hardly influence the risk of catching the handle that much.
I know tangles happen and I have experienced it myself, but I wouldn't consider it a risk that requires a change of habits.
Sure the handle will be pointing away from your body when the loose line is cleared in a run if you use the same hand for both casting and spooling, but as soon as you want to spool line on the reel (loose line or not), the handle will be where it is for everybody: between the hands, in front of your body.
And if you switch hands, you would at least have to wait until the fish is on the reel, and not do it as soon as the fish is hooked in which case you'd be in the exact same situation as I am: handle and loose line both in front of you, between the hands.

As I wrote in the article: I won't argue whether one method is better than the other, but I just don't think this is a really strong argument.

Martin

Submitted by Lars Matthiessen on

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In order to avoid the reel handle to catch the loose line it is preferable to have right hand retrieve when casting with the right hand.

I used to cast right and reel with the left. After some bad tendonitis in my right elbow I found a lot of relief by switching to reeling with the right and fighting fish with the rod in my left hand. I still cast and strip with the rod in the right hand but switch over at a good point in the fight. I think Lefty Kreh claims that everyone can reel faster with the "best hand" and I can believe that.

Another point on casting backwards versus changing hands: with a fighting butt on the rod the wrist can push on the fighting butt and the back cast is often stronger than the front cast..

Submitted by G.S. Marryat on

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I cast with my dominant (right) hand, and retrieve and reel with my left hand. One reason I reel with my left hand is that I have more control of the rod, and the fish, when the rod is in my dominant (right) hand, whereas my weaker (less dominant) left hand has the easier task of winding the reel.

Fred,

I can see the logic, but I have used my "bad hand" (in my case the left since I'm right handed) for retrieving and spooling for the last 35 years or more, and that is actually way my "best hand" for this. Whenever I get a rig, which is set up for right hand winding, I feel awkward and unable to control anything at all even though I should be much better with my right hand than my left.

So it's not that simple, and as I say in the article: it's a question of what you have learned and what the people who taught you did. To me as a right hand caster it feels absolutely odd to have to change the rod to the other hand to reel in line.

To each his own.

Martin

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