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Submitted by Fred Rickson on

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It's simple....you need a "best touch" to hold or let go of the reel grip, and you need a "best touch" to palm the spool. Use your "best hand" to carry out these functions. Which side you cast from doesn't matter.

Submitted by norm frechette on

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another option for the body is gutermann sulky holoshimmer thread

Submitted by Rob Brownfield on

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I had never used this fly but decided to give it a try on a very low Aberdeenshire Dee. I could see pleanty of fish in the pool, but they were not really interested in normal flies fished in a normal down and across method. Rules for the pool say no weighted flies, maximum hook size 10 and floating lines only. So, on went a 4" Sunray dressed on a 1" plastic tube and, unfortunately, a size 12 single as I could not find any size 10's.

What followed was my best days fishing. I hooked 10-12 fish, landed 3 salmon to 12 pounds and a sea trout but lost two very big fish due to the hook pulling after a few minutes. The fly was cast square and stripped back and I rose far more salmon than I hooked. Seeing a double figure Salmon chasing a fly is amazing and great fun!.

Next time I will make sure I have slightly bigger hooks!

Great fly indeed, and so simple to tie.

Submitted by Jon on

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Do you have blueprints with dimensions and materials for the "third reel design"? I've just started a machining program and think what you've built is awesome!

thanks for any information!

Jon

Submitted by will stone on

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hello tim very nice tie i tied a few of these last week and fished the farmington river in CT.caught some big bows and lost a 18-20 inch brown i will definetly tie more of this pattern for future use thanks so much for your hard work and input

Submitted by Frederick Diedrich on

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I think this work station is just what I need. I am new to fly tying and enjoy it .

Submitted by Stuart Anderson on

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Bob,

Another fantastic read.....couldn't agree more with de-ja-vu on the return trip. You go in with a whack full of new flies....... almost the same results as the first time :-)

Barry,

I bought mine at a hobby/craft shop, the kind that has materials for people who sow, knit and work with fabrics. They are essentially clear pearls. The bag contains clear pearls in different lengths. I don't have it where I am now, so I can't check the brand.

You can also cut them yourself from fly tying tube or any similar thin, clear plastic tube, which should be easy to find.

Martin

Submitted by Barry Simpson on

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Where do you find the cylindrical pearl used to in your fly framing article? I have searched the bead section of a couple of hobby stores but can't seem to find them. What is the length used for most trout fly displays?

Submitted by Frederick Diedrich on

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This is what I am looking for, can you tell me the selling price

Mike,
I've tried using Krystal Flash for the body and it does make a nice fly but its also a little less durable so I'd include some wire ribbing as well.

Submitted by Ad Hoogenboezem on

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Hans, great article, great flies !!! Only one remark. There is still one disadvantage when tying with cdc. CDC flies are vulnerable and they remain not dry. Lucky there is amadou.
No gel or grease really works. Kind regards, Ad

Submitted by Christian Vida… on

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Jajaja. Great article and great view of the whole thing Martin!!!
Is very funny. One thing; I will never ever ever wear a "plastic" shirt as first layer in contact with my skin, it sucks! ...the antibacterial and bla bla bla...doesn't work, the production of stinkness is terrible, nothing better than a good long sleeves cotton shirt as first layer and then yes...wear 95 layers of whatever you want.....onion style :)

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